🔧 Lisle Ridge Reamer 36500: Optimal Choice for Engine Optimization Review

The problem with this tool is that it cuts the taper and also cuts unevenly around the cylinder. Because it loosens when you twist it, it cuts more on the side closest to you, or the direction you're pulling. I figured I'd take the shortcut and go for this instead of the lathe type reamer. Big mistake, now I'm stuck with a scrap engine block and a $60 paperweight.

Rubs the cylinder flange as specified. Curious to know what they say about the cone in the car service. I understand that it should not shrink. Very small adjustments at once will get the job done. BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT THE CYLINDER WALL as this can result in ring engagement and catastrophic failure. Other comb reamers cut a square and cut from the bottom of the comb to prevent this. I hope this cone doesn't break the block. The time will show.

I'm mechanically inclined and have been warming up a few engines and just wanted to put new rings on a 302 Windsor. I was better able to remove the combs by hand with a grinding machine than with this tool. I tried it on a bad block first to improve my technique. I slowly crept up to him, and then only occasionally would he lean over and bite me, even though I only slightly extended the blades. Tried medium and large cuts, same result. I threw it in my tool box but I will never use it again.

The tool does not come with instructions but I was lucky enough to find a YouTube video called 'Cylinder fin reamer only'. It's something easy to use. Simply turn the small 15mm screw clockwise to expand the tool until it fits snugly but freely in the barrel. Make sure the two small flanges are resting on top of the cylinder wall. Tighten the small screw with light pressure and then turn the reamer clockwise, I believe it was a 21mm ratchet. Maintaining downward pressure, rotate slowly and…

. The instructions in the packaging are not very clear. But after working with it, everything worked as expected. I recommend it. So advice to the next buyer: put it in the cylinder and tighten it. Place the 13/16" closed end over the large nut, position the wrench so the handle is over the cutting blade portion of the reamer. Apply force with a 3/8" ratchet with 3" extension and 13mm socket to tighten. Bolt when turning the key. You have to hold it tight or if you turn the key 13/16" it will…

I bought this to remove the crest from my original 1937 Hudson 6 cylinder engine. After learning how to use it and getting recommendations from a close friend who is an SAE Master Mechanic, this article has arrived. However, I quickly found that the design was fatally flawed and if used as intended would shear off the taper in the cylinder and DESTROY the rare 82 year old engine! The ring is new, I decided to change the block. I cut off 90% of the plastic lining at the bottom of the cutting…

I bought this tool to expand the cylinders on an old Case backhoe bucket that was not working due to low compression. Like other 5 star reviews here, this tool does exactly what it is designed to do if you use it properly. Yes the rubber o-ring is flimsy and will break after a use or two, mine broke after we finished the job and left it on the workbench after adjusting it to 4 1/8 inches, but I have a box of different o-rings to put on another one. If you keep the reamer's seats pressed against

I read many reviews before ordering this product and thought there might be flaws in the design - there just aren't. I believe that the negative comments are due to the lack of instructions and understanding of how the device works. I've used old combers extensively so I knew what to expect and I think that's the only reason this worked for me. While working on a burr on my 140,000 mile Ford 5.4L, it took me 80 to 105 full turns (depending on how far I tightened the expander to remove the burr.