🏢 M-D Building Products 8664 Adjustable Aluminum Threshold with Vinyl Seal - 36-Inch Review

The product was delivered for the first time without screws or fastening material. Exchanged for another complete set. The only problem is that the sill's screw holes don't line up with the top (adjustable rail) and sill, meaning you'll have to drill additional holes after cutting and aligning the two pieces.

Excellent product. Very well sewn but just so you don't order the wrong size, the description here and right on the box when you receive it says the adjustable height is 1 3/8" to 1 5/8". The whole block that is elasticated is 3/4" at the bottom and about 1 1/4" at the top. So if the distance under your door from the floor to the bottom of the door is more than 1 1/4 inches, it won't work.

Threshold adjustment quite easy once I took the time to understand how the adjustment rod works. I have this to allow for a gap under my door. It helped but the bottom of my door is obviously quite wobbly and still not perfect. Just note that the adjustment will only effectively raise/lower one or both sides. For example, if you have a curved gap in the middle of your door, you can't adjust it so that it's higher in the middle. All in all, this is a well-made product and definitely worth the…

Material is solid seems to stand the test of time, rubber grommet slips into a metal piece that is fitted after the base is secured to your floor. In my case it was a cement floor so I really like this design as I tear the rubber part it can be easily replaced. Yes, you have to shorten it. I was able to cut fairly quickly with a dremel with a steel cutting blade, due to the location of the mounting holes on the base if you need to cut something around 4 inches or more you need to cut evenly…

When installing, I've only ever had a small gap between the door and sill on one side. No matter how I corrected the gap, it always stayed. I finally found out what the problem is. On the sleeper gap side, the fixing screw is outside the set screw. When the sill is bolted to the floor, the adjustable inner piece of aluminum rolls into a base bracket, creating a gap at the outer edge. I had to cut out the wood spacers and insert them between the two pieces of aluminum along the outside edge to…

If you have a variably tapered gap door due to sagging or floor issues and don't want to screw the door closer to the outside, this stop is the best solution I know of. found. Other designs I've seen didn't allow for cone adjustment. The first one worked well enough so I got a second one for a different door. The installation is probably too finicky for the typical homeowner. A few tips: 1) Check which center piece orientation provides the best hole alignment. Additional drilling was not…

Unfortunately I bought two of these, both were missing all or most of the hardware. MD should pack them better. I couldn't wait for another replacement so I went to an old school hardware store. What you need: 4 "cage nuts" (used in IT to secure computer/network equipment in equipment racks), 4 pcs x 3/8" long set screws that have the same thread pitch as the cage nuts. A hex head enough, just use a hex wrench 4 x #10 x 2" screws to attach the sill to the sill plate. I also used balls of good…

This component successfully seals the underside of the front door, but not without considerable effort. First, the main bolt holes in the height-adjustable channel didn't all line up with the holes in the rocker housing it's in - two holes were fairly aligned, the third was slightly offset, and the fourth was probably a quarter of an inch. off (left to right) (Yes, I know the two components have a specific direction relative to each other and you can't flip that without problems, but I've tried